UNSEEN DESTINATIONS OF INDIA

THE HILL OF VICTORY

We set out from Kottayam on another trip as part of identification of lesser known spots of tourism potential in the district. This time our trip was to a couple of destinations a stone’s throw away from the bustling Kottayam town. The places were suggested by my colleague Sajeev who belongs to this locality. It's a trouble-free journey from Kottayam given the good conditions of the K.K. road. Driver Balachandran drove our Sumo smoothly and we went past the busy junctions of Kanjikuzhi and Manarkad. We moved further till we came to a board that read ‘Vennimala Sreerama Lakshmana Temple’ at 8th mile on the main road.

It was our destination. We turned right and drove on the tarred road to the hill top. We drove for another three km and the temple tower came into view in front of us. This serene and beautiful place is located in the Puthuppalli village panchayath of Kottayam district. The hill is located 15km from Kottayam town. The main attraction of the hill is the temple dedicated to Lord Rama and his brother Lakshmana. The legend of the hill is closely associated with this shrine.

Vennimala in ancient days was a dense forest. It is believed that Lord Rama and Lakshmana during their period of exile visited this hillside. At that time numerous sages meditated in the caves of Vennimala. Upon the request of the sages Lakshmana killed many demons that were a threat and nuisance to the sages. Thus the place came to be called ‘Vijayadri’ in Sanskrit. The name means ‘hill of victory’ as Lakshmana won the battle with demons. Vijayadri in Malayalam became Vennimala. A detailed description of this place appears in the famous Malayalam work ‘Aitihyamala’ by Kottarathil Sankunni. Vennimala in medieval ages was inhabited by tribal communities especially Malayarayars. Cheraman Perumal, the illustrated emperor of ancient Kerala consecrated this ancient temple here. He was taken to the beauty of this place and stayed here and built a palace. He earmarked the hill as a sacred and protected place. Sadly, the palace doesn’t remain today.
The temple has two ‘kodimarams’ symbolically dedicated to the two brothers. The temple celebrates 28 days of annual festival every year. Sajeev said the people in the region and nearby places throng here to perform ‘Pithru Tharpanam’ held here on the day of Amavasi of Karkitaka month (July). This ‘Bali Karma’ is offered by people for the salvation of sins and to appease the dead souls.
A huge banyan tree stands like a sage undertaking penance withstanding time and seasons in front of the temple. We descended a flight of steps towards the side and reached the edge of the temple tank. Thanks to monsoon, water remained up to its brim. The temple pond is located about 100m from the temple and it is said that the sacred channel of the temple opens to this pond. It is said in ‘Aitihyamala’ that Vennimala once had seven big ponds called ‘saras’ and 72 small ponds called ‘eris’ scattered throughout the hill. Presently, around a dozen of these ponds still remain. The small ponds are located in various parts of the hill. The unique feature of these ponds is that they have sparkling fresh water even in hot summers.

Our next point in the hill was a huge cave on one side of the hill located barely one kilometer from the temple. We went down to a side of the hill and the site had a dash of green with some trees forming natural arched gateways. A local guy said that the cave runs up to the banyan tree in front of the temple, but it is closed today by big boulders fallen in place. The wide opening mouth of the cave is still intact. The cave can accommodate nearly ten people at a time. The inside of the cave was cool and moist and the spot offered a fine view of the undulating rubber plantations below.

We went in front of the local guy’s house. Some work was going on his well. We peeped into it. Who! It was several fathoms deep. The guy said that there were even deeper wells in the hill. But the water inside was cool and crystal clear, now after the rains. The man told us that presently Vennimala has around eighty households on the hillside. Rubber abounds the vegetation of the hill. There are no commercial establishments on the hilltop and it remains silent and serene away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Vennimala offers numerous serene walks on the hill. Any visitor to the hillcan crisscross the entire hillside by walking through pleasant and shady ‘nattuvazhis’ (country walks). Flanked by shady rubber plantations they offer a unique charm. Soon we saw a pond on one side of the hill which was protected by stone walls and neatly laid out stone steps. Modern-day carvings by desperate lovers jarringly co-existed with the ancient.

Springing surprise - Aruvikuzhi waterfalls:
Soon we left Vennimala to our next destination – Aruvikuzhi waterfalls. We drove on the K.K.Road further till Pampadi, the first small town after Kottayam. Here we turned left on the road to Kooroppada and after nearly 8 km went past Kooroppada junction on way to Pallicktahodu. The waterfalls is located 3 km further from this junction.

The ward members of Pallickathodu Grama Panchayath, Mr. C. K. Vijayakumar and Mr. Benny were waiting for us there. Milky white sheet of water was rushing down the blackened rocks forming a natural pool. A breathtaking sight! From there, the water finds its way through big and small rocks to become a bubbling stream. Here the chorus of birds can be barely heard over the crash of water as it cascades over the rocks. The water column falls from an impressive height of 100 feet. This tiered dance of water set against a backdrop of shady rubber plantations, is an arresting sight.

Aruvikuzhi waterfalls have the unique distinction that it is easily accessible by road right up to the spot. Tourists don’t have to trek or walk a long distance to reach the waterfalls, since the falls is located right under the road bridge. The waterfall here is not perennial and will last for three to four months after the monsoon. Aruvikuzhi presently has little basic amenities for the tourists. Hence, the village panchayath has taken up the proposal for creating necessary facilities at the site owned by the panchayath. This project will result in the overall economic development of this village and will benefit the local people and community.

The shrine on the hilltop:
We drove back to Kooroppada junction and turned on the road to Manarkad via Areepparambu. A little further we saw the signboard to ‘Matrumala Hilltop Temple’. It was a muddy winding road that leads to the hill top. The hilltop can also be approached on foot. The place got its name as it has a small temple on its top dedicated to Goddess. The temple is believed to have been built by Parasurama, the legendary creator of Kerala who installed idols of the seven Goddesses (Saptamathas) here. The temple is small and well maintained and has been recently renovated in modern style. The hilltop offered stunning views for miles around.

Now it was time for us to get back. We proceeded back towards Manarkad and at Areepparambu Sajeev got down. His home is located in this village. We went towards the Lord Siva Temple here. The unique feature here is there are two shrines inside the temple complex each having its own ‘kodimaram’. The temple was closed.

We proceeded back to Manarkad and at Oravakkal, joined the Pala – Kidangoor - Manarkad road. We went past the famous Manrakad Temple and the St. Mary’s church and reached Manarkad junction and returned back to Kottayam.

Any visitor can do this trip quite easily from Kottayam or Kumarakom. The route is Kottayam – Manarkad – Vennimala – Pampadi – Kooroppada – Aruvikuzhi – Kooroppada – Matrumala – Oravakkal – Manarkad – Kottayam or you can do it the other way.